The chainsaws have fallen silent. The sawdust has settled, and the stump has been ground out. Today’s client, Bob, looks a little twitchy. I know what’s coming. I busy myself with the rake, avoiding eye contact. “Hey Pat,” she says. “What should I plant in its place?”
There it is. Every arborist knows this question. Every arborist also knows there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. Yet, before my brain can catch up with my mouth, I blurt out, “Crepe myrtle!” Again.
Now, don’t get me wrong—crepe myrtle is a terrific tree. It flowers spectacularly, develops beautiful bark, produces attractive seed capsules, and finishes with brilliant autumn colour. Four winning characteristics in one tree is about as rare as hen’s teeth. But planting the same species everywhere isn’t the answer.
Increasingly, arborists talk about the 10-20-30 rule for urban tree diversity: no more than 10% of any one species, 20% of any one genus, and 30% of any one family. Diversity makes our towns more resilient when new pests and diseases inevitably arrive. With threats such as Polyphagous Shot-Hole Borer now in Australia, that’s becoming more important every year.
These days, I’ve learned to resist giving instant answers. Instead, I put the kettle on. Choosing a tree deserves a conversation. We sit down with a notebook, a few reference books, and perhaps an internet search or two.
Bob says she wants to plant a tree in the same place, along the boundary fence. “But we’ve just removed a tree because it outgrew the space,” I say. “It was pushing the fence over and shading your neighbour’s solar panels.” Trees planted right on boundaries rarely get the chance to become the trees they were meant to be. Half belongs to one neighbour, half to the other, and before long they’re pruned, lopped, and argued over.
Instead, I encourage people to think differently. What if, instead of squeezing several trees around the edges, you planted just one really good tree in the right place? For most suburban gardens, that’s all you need. Give it enough room to develop naturally. Let it cast shade where it’s wanted, frame the house, provide habitat, and become the focal point of the garden rather than something constantly being cut back. After all, much of my work comes down to one simple problem: the wrong tree in the wrong place.
Of course, choosing that one tree isn’t always straightforward. Soil comes first. Is it sandy? Clay? Free-draining? Does it stay wet after rain? Then there’s sunlight, wind exposure, available space, and whether you’re trying to screen a neighbour, frame a distant view or create summer shade while letting winter sun through. Deciduous or evergreen? Fast-growing or slow? Native or exotic? It’s no wonder people feel overwhelmed.
My advice? Walk around your neighbourhood. Photograph trees that look healthy and well suited to local conditions. Then visit an independent nursery and see what’s available. Local knowledge is invaluable. Some of my local favourites include the Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba) at the Courtyard Studios in Milton, the Magnolia Tree (Magnolia grandiflora) at Milton Public School, the Lemon-Scented Myrtle (Backhousia citriodora) at the Hilltop Golf Club car park, the Cypress Tree (Cupressus species) on Gordon St, Milton, the Lilly Pilly (Acmena smithii) at the top of Tallwood Avenue, Mollymook, and the Yellow Bloodwood (Corymbia eximia ̒nana̓) along Golf Avenue, Mollymook.
Sometimes less really is more. Think about the famous trees you remember. The magnificent Mick Ryan Fig Tree. The old apple tree at your grandparents’ place. The climbing tree from childhood. Even the Sycamore Gap Tree in England became famous for standing alone, perfectly framing the surrounding landscape.
A single, well-placed tree often leaves a far greater impression than dozens competing for space. Japanese garden design understands this beautifully. Every plant has purpose. Space is as important as foliage. Ironically, Japan also gave us the Miyawaki method—tiny, densely planted forests. It’s a fascinating concept in the right location, although I suspect a few of my clients have accidentally embraced it in suburban backyards.
Once you’ve chosen your tree, buying a healthy specimen matters. Don’t be fooled by lush growth in a pot. Some nursery plants have been heavily fertilised and watered for rapid sale, only to become root-bound or develop circling roots that cause problems later. Lift the pot. If it feels suspiciously light, much of the potting mix may already have washed away. If possible, gently slide the tree from its container and inspect the root system. Healthy roots should spread naturally, not spiral endlessly around the pot.
In many cases, smaller trees establish faster than large, expensive specimens. Bare-root trees, available from specialist nurseries, often outperform larger container-grown trees because their roots establish more naturally.
Planting properly is equally important. Dig a broad planting hole—around three times wider than the root ball—but no deeper. Position the tree at the same level it grew in the nursery and backfill with the soil you’ve just removed. Resist the temptation to create a luxury compost-filled hole. Roots need encouragement to venture into the surrounding soil rather than remain in a comfortable pocket.
After planting, mulch generously—but never against the trunk. That mulch ring becomes one of the simplest and most effective things you can do for a tree. It conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, encourages earthworms, and eliminates the constant battle between lawnmowers, whipper snippers, and vulnerable bark.
I recommend extending the mulch ring as the tree grows. Citrus trees benefit enormously from this. Grass is a fierce competitor for water and nutrients, and removing it often transforms a struggling citrus almost overnight.
Watering is often overcomplicated. A deep soak is far better than frequent light watering. The aim is to encourage roots to grow downwards, following moisture through the soil, much as they would after natural rainfall. Above all, be flexible. Weather, soil type, and season all influence how much water a young tree needs.
Well-chosen trees reward us in countless ways. They cool our homes, support birds and insects, improve mental wellbeing, increase property values, and make our streets more beautiful. Urban planners now talk about the 3-30-300 rule: everyone should be able to see at least three trees from their home, live in neighbourhoods with 30% tree canopy cover, and be within 300 metres of quality green space. It’s an ambitious goal—but one worth striving for.
Bob looks at me. “That’s all very helpful,” she says, “but what should I actually plant?”
Fair enough. If I had to recommend one small feature tree for many South Coast gardens, it would be Cercis ‘Forest Pansy’ (Cercis canadensis). It produces masses of rosy-pink flowers on bare branches in late winter, followed by rich purple foliage that turns warm shades of orange in autumn. It will never need pruning, so you’ll also save on arborist fees.
As the soil warms up, it’s a great time to plant one good tree, so let’s dig and leave a legacy. It might just become the tree that future generations remember.
Patrick Faulconer is a qualified arborist who lives in Milton. We thank him for sharing his expertise with White Wash Magazine.